"Utah?" was the universal reaction, "Stay away from that place: it's a mormon hellhole."

For years, I've though of Moab, Utah as the heart of mountain biking; the red slick rock is legendary, and a regular pilgrimage for wayward fat tire travellers. Beyond that, I was aware of not much else.

There are few places that offer so much variety packed into so little space; the desert regions in Utah's south are a strong counterpoint to the now well known Wasaatch mountain.

And yeah, there's the polygamy thing.

Now that can't be all bad can it?

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